Vintners looking to craft great Canadian wine have another indigenous tool at their disposal - barrels made with Canadian white oak, which adds layers of flavours, depth and a uniquely homegrown element to the finished wine.
Winemaker Derek Barnett, who produced the first commercially available wine aged in Canadian oak at Lailey Vineyards in Niagara-on-the-Lake, said the barrels added unique flavours to his newly released 2001 Chardonnay Canadian Oak
"It was a bit of a thrill for us," Barnett said, recalling the first time he and winemaking partners David and Donna Lailey first tasted wine out of Canadian oak. "We got all of this green character - fennel and licorice - that adds richness to the fruit and then, on the finish, maple syrup. It was quite amazing."
The smell and taste of oak can be a seductive thing, which is why Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Shiraz and other wines are commonly aged in small wood barrels that are commonly referred to as barriques. The wood for these containers has customarily come from French forests, including woodlots in Nevers, Allier, Troncais and Vosges, and America, grown in places like Missouri, Tennessee, and Arkansas.
The impact of Canadian oak seems to be more reflective of French oak even though it is the same species as American oak. It adds more elegance and refined flavours, most similar to French oak barrels from Vosges, to the wine as opposed to the bold and brash overtones of American oak. Following after the stereotypes; imagine French barrels huddled together, smoking Gitanes and discussing existentialism, while the boisterous American oak barrels attract attention to themselves by screaming U.S.A! U.S.A! U.S.A!
Canadian oak pins a maple leaf to itself and lingers in the midst of this throng, looking for acceptance from both camps.
Oak aging softens the testure, harmonizes the flavours and creates a more mellow and complex drink, but such enhancement comes at a cost. The process of making barrels is elaborate and time-consuming - for starters, barrels for aging wine must be watertight without the use of nails, glue or sealants, which would impart off flavours.
New barrels start at $500. The price increase depending where the wood comes from and the pedigree of the cooperage. Canadian oak barrels are made by Canadian Oak Cooperage, Inc. from wood harvested in southern Ontario.
That price isn't out of the question, Barnett said, considering the beneficial impact they have on the finished product.
"It's like American producers gravitating to American oak or French producers using French oak. There's a great synergy. We get these really amazing flavours when we put our wine in our own white oak," he said.
"It doesn't overpower the wine. Freshness, fruit and focus are what we are striving for in our wines."
Only 25 cases were made of the Canadian oak Chardonnay, an allotment that is being sold for $29.95, with a limit of one bottle per customer at the Niagara Parkway winery."It could have been all gone in no time. The reception has been phenomenal," said Barnett, whoi has turned down offers to buy up the entire production. "I couldn't do it - I wanted more folks to be able to taste it."
More wine - from more producers - will come on stream next year. Featherstone Estate Winery and Vineyards, Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, The Malivoire Wine Company, Marynissen Estate Wines and Thirty Bench Vineyards have some of their 2002 wines in the barrels right now. Wine lovers will have to wait until then to taste what effect the Canadian white oak will have on red wines.
Lailey Vineyards had aged some Cabernet Sauvignon in the first delivery of barrels, but Barnett said the wine didn't meet his expectations. He's pleased with how the 2002 reds, including four barrels of Pinot Noir that are being barrel fermented with natural yeast, are faring even at this early stage of development.He also has Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon aging in the Canadian oak, and said he is seriously considering putting some Vidal Icewine in a small barrel to see how it fares.
"I don't think we'll ever get rid of French barrels, but I think (Canadian barrels) might take over from the American," he explained. "The supply is good enough that we can get as many as we wish."
Wines of the Week
Lailey Vineyard 2001 Chardonnay Canadian Oak
Niagara Peninsula $29.95
****
A great gift for the wine lover who has everything. The Canadian oak adds pleasant anise and fennel notes to the coconut milk and tropical fruit flavours
commonly found in Lailey Vineyards Chardonnay. The finish turns sweet with a hint of caramel flavour, which other tasters have referred to as being more maple syrup in character. Apart from being significant as a pioneering effort, this is an elegant and refined Chardonnay that rivals the best of Niagara. (15940 Niagara Parkway, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 905-468-0503)
(Rating is out of five stars)
Christopher Waters is a Standard reporter and managing editor of VINES, a national wine magazine. He can be reached by calling 684-7251, ext.259 0r e-mail cwaters@scs.southam.c
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Canadian Oak Copyright 2004